We take food news very seriously here at Nightcap HQ, so when we heard that France was running low on mustard, we had to dig in.
Here's the deal: The French love mustard. France is the world's biggest consumer of the condiment, with the average French person putting away 2.2 pounds of it every year, according to the New York Times. Is it as essential as butter? Non. But it's right up there. And right now, because of a one-two punch of climate change and war, there's a dearth of mustard on grocery shelves, leaving the famously food-obsessed people scrambling for an alternative.
"I don't think we have ever seen anything like it," says Marc Désarménien, proprietor of Maison Fallot, a family run business that's been producing mustard for generations in the town of — I kid you not — Dijon. (Did y'all know Dijon was the place and not just the style of mustard? Fascinating. Is it like how Champagne from anywhere else is just sparkling white wine? Anyway, I digress...)
"My grandfather has lived through two world wars and the post-war period when there were ration tickets in France, but even then there was mustard!" Désarménien tells my colleague Camille Knight. "Now whether you go to Lille, Marseille, Bordeaux or Strasbourg, nobody has any mustard left. It's all sold within a few hours."
What's going on?
A couple of things, both of which are large-scale disasters hurting far more than condiments.
1. Climate change. Your Dijon may be genuinely from Dijon, but the seeds themselves are grown in an area of Canada that's been hit with extreme heat liked to global warming. That's cut the usual yield in half.
So naturally, mustard makers would look to other places that grow mustard seeds, right? Yes. But there's a problem...
2. The other top mustard seed exporters happen to be *squints at notes* Ukraine and Russia. Who are, you know, a little preoccupied.
BOTTOM LINE
It's really hard to substitute the taste of mustard. People are trying all kinds of concoctions with tahini, wasabi and horseradish. It's pretty grim.
But there's a silver lining: The Canadian agriculture ministry is predicting better yields for the coming harvest, which should help get production back up to normal.
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